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Vitamin C and the Skin: An Important Cosmeceutical for Home Care and in Professional Treatments

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Oxidative damage shows up in the form of wrinkles, discoloration, and loss of elasticity. Vitamin C is a must home care product and treatment active used to aid your clients/patients in skin rejuvenation. Our chemists have refined and stabilized a new delivery system to optimize delivery of the active ingredients in a “time-released” formula, delivering sustained hydration for hours.

Vitamin C Serums

There are several forms of vitamin C used in topical cosmeceuticals. At Control Corrective we offer two vitamin C serums. One that is water based (Crystal C Serum), and our newest serum, C Defense Serum with Poly-Pore® Technology. Our newest serum was created to address both signs of aging, skin brightening and dehydration.

C Defense Serum with Poly-Pore® Technology

Manufactured in an anhydrous (water-free) formulation, our C Defense Serum has a high percentage of vitamin C (12%), and because there is no water in the formula, is less likely to cause irritation (because most of the inflammation is caused by hydrogen ions generated by acid disassociating in water).

It is well documented that topical vitamin C is effective in treating compromised skin and helping prevent skin damage. Our bodies do not produce vitamin C so incorporating it into daily skin regimens, provided it is bioavailable, is a key ingredient in anti-aging and skin brightening home care and treatment regimens. Studies show numerous positive effects of vitamin C on the skin. 

Crystal C Serum

Our Crystal C Serum, a light water-based solution uses sodium ascorbyl phosphate or STAY-C® 50. The mechanism of action relates to our own skin enzymes, which exist in all layers of the skin, and allow the phosphate to release vitamin C without skin irritation. STAY-C® 50 is a powerful in-vivo antioxidant and free radical scavenger. It has been shown to also reduce acne not only experienced by teenagers but also by adults. The easily water-soluble monophosphate ester of ascorbic acid bio-converts into vitamin C by phosphatases present in the skin.

According to studies, STAY-C® 50 as an antioxidant is an effective form of vitamin C for reducing signs of aging. Reports show that vitamin C enhances the production of collagen in fibroblasts and in the same study, STAY-C® 50 was shown to promote the synthesis of Collagen 1 and Collagen 3 in human dermal fibroblasts. STAY-C® 50 was able to inactivate Propionibacterium acnes after 8 hours nearly completely.

Remember, vitamin C cannot be stored in the body, so it must be used on the skin daily to sustain the benefits. Topical vitamin C has been shown to provide up to eight times the skin’s natural production from UV damage. Teach your clients/patients about the benefits so they really can appreciate why these products, in the right formulation, deliver so many benefits to the skin.

Product Selection

So, which one do you carry? In my practice, I always had several types of active products with technology because I wanted to customized skin care solutions according to skin type, skin problem, and condition of the skin. For oiler skin types a lighter, water-based solution may be indicated whereas, with a drier, more mature skin type, a more hydrating formulation is ideal. Both work effectively, but are different in terms of texture, viscosity and other ingredients. The C Defense Serum has a higher percentage of vitamin C and some clients who are sensitive to this may need a lower strength, in which case the Crystal C Serum would be preferred. That is why clients should work with their esthetician, so the products can be customized for their individual needs, and why you, the professional are the best person for clients and patients to work with if they want true skin improvement.

References:

(1)  Ryu-Icho Hata and Haruki Sendoo, L-Ascorbic acid 2 phosphate stimulates collagen accumulation, cell proliferation and formuation of a a three-dimentional tissue like substance by skin fibroblasts, Journal of Cellular Physiology, 138 (1989) 8-6.

(2)  (2) N. Boyera, I Galey et al., Effect of Vitamin C and its derivatives on collagen synthesis and cross-linking by normal human fibroblasts, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 20 (1998) 151-158.

(3)  Kerry M Hanson and Robert M Clegg, Bioconvertible vitamin antioxidants improve sunscreen photoprotection against UV induced reactive oxygen species, Journal of Cosmetic Science 54/6 (November/December 2003) 589-598.

(4)  Hiromichi Takashima, Hiraki Nomura et al., Ascorbic acid esters and skin pigmentation, American Perfumer and Cosmetics, 86/7 (1971) 29-36.

(5)  Traikovich SS. Use of Topical Ascorbic acid and its effects on Photo damaged skin topography. Arch Otorhinol Head Neck Surg. 1999;125:1091–8. [PubMed]

(6)  3. Farris PK. Cosmetical Vitamins: Vitamin C. In: Draelos ZD, Dover JS, Alam M, editors. Cosmeceuticals. Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology. 2nd ed. New York: Saunders Elsevier; 2009. pp. 51–6.

(7)  4. Wikepedia: [Home Page] Vitamin C: History. [Last Accessed on Aug 11]. Discovery and Sources in Available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_C .

Nicolette

Nicolette

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